If you spend enough time in the back hallways of industrial embroidery—away from the roar of 15-head Tajimas and the clickbait of “auto-punch” software—you will eventually hear a name whispered with a mix of reverence and frustration:
Barudan didn't just make a digitizer; they made the Punchant. It was designed specifically for Barudan multi-head machines, but the format (Barudan .DAT or .PUN) became a lingua franca for high-end lace. Barudan Punchant
To the uninitiated, the Barudan Punchant (often stylized as Punchant or Punch-lant ) looks like a relic. It’s a standalone, dedicated digitizing workstation that peaked in the late 1980s and early 1990s. It has a monochrome CRT screen, a proprietary puck (tablet), and a user interface that makes DOS look like iOS. If you spend enough time in the back
I recently visited a factory in Como, Italy. They still run three Punchants. They use them exclusively for "antiquing"—converting modern vector art into files that mimic 1920s hand-run Schiffli. They output the .PUN files to a modern Barudan, then chemically burn away the backing. The result is indistinguishable from lace woven in 1955. The Barudan Punchant is a reminder that digitizing is not graphic design. It is choreography. It is physics. They still run three Punchants
Schiffli machines are the massive, 15-yard-long behemoths that produce lace, eyelet, and bridal fabric. They use a continuous thread and a pantograph to move hundreds of needles at once. Schiffli lace has a distinct "hand" (feel)—it is soft, drapey, and has a tactile roughness on the back.
This resulted in a lag between the needle and the pantograph. In modern machines, the needle and the hoop are perfectly synced. In a Punchant file, the needle is always slightly "dragging" behind the hoop movement. This creates a sawtooth edge on satin columns that, when washed in a chemical bath, frays into a perfect, soft eyelash fringe.